San Francisco is well known for the unplumbed cultural pearls that can only be unearthed by those with the stamina to kick through some metropolitan rubble. While each neighborhood has its standout sights, the real SF experience begins once you step outside of the tourist traps and start to explore the nooks and crannies of the city. The Tenderloin, gritty and mysterious as it may be, is by far one of the most under-explored neighborhoods in the Bay Area and only half a mile from Union Square. Those who have taken the time to uncover its hidden glory know that there is much to be treasured, and while many locals hope to keep these hallowed hideaways to themselves, the Tenderloin is steadily gaining traction towards its highly anticipated and unstoppable debut as a San Francisco pinnacle.
Amidst an urban oasis cluttered with Michelin Star-earning restaurants and the crowded dining rooms that result, the Tenderloin offers a sweet (and often savory) escape. Diners looking to enjoy a quiet meal without compromising the memorable flavors that San Francisco has to offer can find their resolve in one of the Tenderloin’s many culinary pockets. The two-block stretch down Larkin Street, nestled between O’Farrell and Eddy, quarters a culturally explosive hub fondly referred to as “Little Saigon”. Similar in essence to Chinatown and Japantown, the active Vietnamese community in the Tenderloin has introduced a threshold to some of the tastiest exotic bites in the city. Saigon Sandwich is not only budget friendly, but boasts one of the best bahn mi sandwiches in the area. If you’re partial to a brothy bowl of pho, Little Saigon welcomes you with local favorites like Turtle Tower, where the traditional rice noodles are made from scratch and the soup is served sans fixings to promote a purist’s pho experience.
The beauty of a neighborhood like the Tenderloin lies in its inhabitants’ interest in maintaining a carefully curated variety of benchmark eateries. Visitors who are hungry for a San Franciscan take on Taiwanese cuisine should visit The Chairman – a cafeteria-style kitchen serving bold Asian street food. From the first bite of the steamed buns served warm on your plate to the addictive combination of savory spices in each bite, the experience at The Chairman is a pleasantly refined (yet accessible) surprise toughened by the Tenderloin’s infamous edge.
With a full belly and a taste for the community, visitors are encouraged to explore the charming and delightfully offbeat thrift shopping opportunities. Whether you’re in the market for a well-worn paperback book or a long-lost record, you’re guaranteed to find a memorable piece to bring home with you after a day of rummaging through the Tenderloin’s cozy shops. In true San Francisco style, many of the thrift stores in the area center around community wellness and charity. One of the most unique and popular thrift stores in the Tenderloin, The Love Project, grants some of its profits to the AIDS Foundation. This hole-in-the-wall hotspot is stuffed to the brim with fabulously eclectic items, challenging passersby to take a shot at discovering the perfect souvenir.
While exploring one of the most photographable places on the planet, San Francisco natives and visitors alike flock to the opportunity to capture its grace and, more specifically, the bewitchery of the Tenderloin. Luckily for them, Camera Heaven is stashed in the heart of the neighborhood. A well-kept secret, Camera Heaven is furnished with a myriad of cameras, estranged pieces and rare parts. If you’re an avid photographer with an old-fangled instrument, chances are you’ll be able to find the odds and ends you can’t find anywhere else. Plus, they offer expert repairs and choice cameras that make unforgettable gifts.
When it comes to nightlife in the Tenderloin, the best options are those that fly under the radar. Bourbon & Branch, a dimly lit speakeasy on Jones Street, is simultaneously hyped up and hushed down, provoking an air of exclusivity and privilege among guests. The prohibition-style whiskey bar makes every effort to recreate a time when ordering a drink was in violation of the law. Guests are not allowed the use their phones or cameras while visiting the establishment, tempting night owls with the smoldering intrigue and smoky allure of the unseen. An impressive collection of hand-numbered whiskeys, bourbons and fine liquors is enough to pull you in, but the bohemianism is what will keep you glued to your chair for hours.
Just when you think the night has finally wound down for the keen Tenderloin traveler, a warm welcome awaits at the celebrated Phoenix Hotel on Eddy Street. This property has a reputation for inviting rock ‘n’ roll legends and artistic icons into its colorfully-gilded rooms. From Robert Plant and Mick Jagger to Andy Warhol himself, this lounge-style hotel hosts debauchery for the young at heart as well as a luxurious place for weary guests to settle in for a nightcap once the party is over. Part of the respected Joie De Vivre hotel chain, the Phoenix was erected in the 1950’s and has since been remodeled into a plush, pool-centric hangout for singles and couples, young and old. The in-lounge restaurant, Chambers, offers brunch and dinner menus filled with seasonal dishes and a fortune of cocktails that tempt patrons to gratify their wild sides throughout the entirety of their stay.
The Tenderloin district is not for the faint of heart – rather, it invites the offbeat, outlandish and delightfully odd. Its lack of glamour underscores the neighborhood’s charisma, drawing visitors in and persuading them to stay with its sheer strength of heart. While it’s wise to stay sharp and mind your surroundings, this community begs spectators to embrace its powerfully peculiar, beautifully bizarre and inescapably inspiring energy.